I Left My Heart in Borough Market
Please welcome Erika to Smitten by Britain. She is a career counselor by day, foodie by night and hopeful expat, with a dream of attending grad school across the pond. She’s had a crush on England ever since she can remember and thinks life is delicious and very, very funny.
I Left My Heart in Borough Market
Photos by Erika Jones
I discovered Borough Market quite by accident in January of 2008. Had I not been flirting shamelessly with the cute bartender from the cozy little bistro next door to my hotel, I might never have gotten there. (The thought now makes me shiver). I was winding down a short holiday vacation with a friend – we’d already spent our time in London doing most of the touristy things – visiting Buckingham Palace, indulging in afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason, plowing through the crowds at Harrod’s. We had one more day to indulge in this city that I’ve loved since I was a child and I wanted to go somewhere good. We were perched on barstools watching our funny friend pour whiskies and wine when I leaned over and asked him, “If you had only one morning here, what would you do?” “Oh I’d definitely check out Borough Market. And while you’re there, would you pick me up a tin of Campbell’s tea?” I giggled and assured him I would, feeling happy that I’d get a chance to see him again.
The next day my friend and I went our separate ways – she wasn’t yet finished digesting the Tate Modern and I wanted to get an early start. Travelling to the market was easy – a couple of Tube transfers later and I found myself at the London Bridge stop. Somehow I managed to randomly choose the correct exit to surface and found the market entrance almost under my nose (I know now that reading maps and following signs in the station can help you too). Walking underneath the stone entranceway I found myself in another world completely. Suddenly I was far away from the chaos and exhaust of the High Street. Rows and rows of colorful candies, flowers, chocolates, salts, breads, pastries, olives and cheeses greeted me, the clashing scents somehow making sense.
It was a Thursday morning so, thankfully, the market was not yet full and I was able to walk the aisles easily with plenty of room. One of my first stops was for a sample of Turkish delight. The group of gentlemen standing behind the rainbow candies smiled and offered generous samples. I tried rosewater, lemon, pistachio, then picked out souvenir boxes for friends back home. I made my way across the alley to the meat and fish vendors, and watched a man stirring a giant pot of curry – the tendrils of steam coming up from his spoon reminded me that my feet were cold and I hadn’t yet had my morning cup of coffee. I wound my way back through the market and crossed the street to Monmouth Coffee Company where a cup of cafe au lait warmed my fingers. I went next door to Neil’s Yard Dairy for a nibble of crumbled sheep’s milk cheese and breathed in the cool and humid air – taking in the stacks around me. I was surrounded by wheels of gloucesters, stiltons, and cheddars, their crusts glistening gray with names I had never heard of. I laughed as I spotted an entire shelf of Campbell’s tea – I had been searching for it all morning and was resigned to giving up the search, but here it was – its yellow and brown lettering winking up at me. I purchased the big round tin and worked my way back to the street. It was time to get ready to go home. I was sad that I was leaving, but knew I would be back again soon.
Little did I know how true that statement would end up being. I’ve been lucky enough to travel back to Borough four times since that January morning, for me it’s my touch point and one of the first things I do on arrival in England. (But I did learn the hard way that one should NEVER ever visit on a Saturday morning, immediately after touching down at Heathrow. Busiest time at the market + jet lag does not a happy wanderer make….) The bartender is long forgotten, replaced with other, sweeter memories. I’ve eaten little glass pots of fresh yogurt sitting on a curb with my mother, met friends for slices of strawberry cake on rainy days and purchased bags of gluten-free coconut granola for long plane rides home. I’ve stood in front of stacks of tea towels and framed watercolor pictures, tearful at the thought of leaving and wondering when I would be able to make my way back. It’s always sooner than I think, and for that I am grateful. Some things have changed since my first visit. There’s been some construction and expansion which makes me get lost a bit more than usual, but at its heart it’s the same place – a vibrant, bustling, community of people from all over the world who simply care and love the experience of food.
You can visit the market virtually at http://www.boroughmarket.org.uk/
Erika Jones
Sounds heavenly!
Comment by Miss Marla — July 2, 2010 @ 2:29 am
What a wonderful post!
I’ve been to London twice but, sadly, I never made it to Borough Market. After reading this, the market is now #1 on the ‘to do’ list for my next trip!
Cheers!
Comment by Catherine — July 2, 2010 @ 3:45 am
What a splendid way to pass time!
Comment by Spencer Park — July 2, 2010 @ 5:07 pm
SPLENDID!
Thank you.
Comment by Dean Measor — July 7, 2010 @ 8:25 pm
In all the times that I’ve been to London, I’ve never made it to Borough Market!! Will try and make the effort next time I’m there as it sounds fabulous!!!
Comment by Emma — July 7, 2010 @ 9:06 pm